Dodge Durango (’00-’03) & Dodge Dakota (’00-’04) 2018
Dodge Durango (’00-’03) & Dodge Dakota (’00-’04) 2018 – Hey this is another video by Pet Rock andtoday I’m working on my ’03 Dodge Durango 4×4,And today I’m going to be replacing theupper ball joints,As you can see from this angle the dust boot has actually torn on theback end and it is gushing out the grease that should be inside it,These ball jointsare actually made by MOOG and I’m going to be replacing them with the same model becausethey have a lifetime warranty,So after you’ve clearly jacked up the truck and supportedit with jack stands on the frame rails.
first you want to remove this bracket right here,This will allow you to get a little bit more access and flexibility in these brake linesand the ABS sensor line,It’s a half in bolt,So now you have a bunch of room and be ableto move these cables around as you are trying to work on the ball joint,So I also liketo take the bolt and put it back where it came from so it’s easier to keep track of,Next you want to remove the cotter pin that is holding the castle nut onto the ball joint,It’s a little bit hard to film in this tight space so I’m going to do this off camera.
You just take a pair of dikes or wire cutters, grab onto the cotter bin and bend it backinto shape or just cut the thing,Ok once you’ve got the cotter pin out you need toloosen but not entirely remove the castle nut,The size of this nut is going to be differentdepending on the manufacturer of the ball joint,I know the stock nut is a differentsize then the MOOG nut which is on this truck,In my case it’s a 13/16″,Ok now once youhave got the nut loosened a little bit so it’s showing some threads but it’s not entirelyoff, you want it on still about two or three threads,Now what we are going to do is we’regoing to take a hammer and hit right here on the knuckle.
- upper control
Whats that’s going to do isit’s going to shock the ball joint so that the knuckle will drop through the shaft,Ormore specifically the ball joint will be able to pull out of it,It’s also a good idea totake a bungee cord or similar and tuck your lines out of the way so you don’t hit it withyour hammer,So before you start whacking it with a hammer you want to jack up the lowercontrol arm slightly to take the weight and pressure off of the ball joint,Because ifthe suspension is at it’s full travel there is going to be a lot of lateral force on thatball joint making it difficult for it to come out,So to help you out you want to take anice pry bar, stick it in here so you can apply upward pressure on the upper controlarm as you are hitting on the knuckle.
This will help separate it and give a little bitextra force and make this job a little bit easier,There you go,So now you want to removethe nut the rest of the way off,Now you want to take your pry bar again, stick it backin there so you can apply upward pressure on the upper control arm,Then you want totake your other hand and push inward to relieve some of the stress off of the ball joint asyou push up to release the ball joint from the knuckle,Like that,Now depending on howrusted these bolts are you might want to put a little bit of penetrating oil on them tohelp loosen them up a little bit and make it easier to remove,On some trucks thesemay not be bolts,They may be rivets at which point you need to get a grinder of some formand grind off the heads of the rivets so you can pop them out,With this truck there wasa recall for the upper ball joints very early after it was released.
They were replacedunder recall a long time ago,So I never had to go through the grinding part,Just crackeach one of the nuts,So you want to crack them before you remove them all because theycan be on here with some amount of torque and/or be rusted on there pretty good,Soyou want to make sure that they are all loose before removing them all to make it so youcan actually remove them all,Because if you get these two nuts off for example and don’tcrack the third one loose first you are going to have a hell of a time getting that thirdone loose,So now just remove the nuts the rest of the way,You remove the last bolt,pull the bolt and pull the ball joint,Ok, now that the ball joint is off you want toprep the new ball joint,So now you take the new ball joint, in this case they are madeby MOOG and they come with a Zerk fitting so they are greaseable.
One common misconceptionabout these Zerk fittings is that these holes right here are not threaded,They are smooth,The threads on the Zerk fitting will actually cut their own threads in this hole right hereso you want to make sure that when you thread this in you get it in perfectly straight otherwiseit will leak,In my experience I prefer to actually install the Zerk fitting first,Haveit fully threaded and seated,Then remove it for the actual install of the ball joint,The reason being is that I can make sure that the Zerk fitting is in straight and fullysecure and lined up properly easier with the ball joint off the car then I can with iton,Especially if it is a lower ball joint that’s upside down or in some weird configurationor even tie rod ends,Same difference,So take the new Zerk fitting,You insert it intothe hole,Make sure it’s nice and lined up,You give it a nice little twist to start it,Then you turn the whole ball joint to make sure that the Zerk fitting.